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In the case of the grand old meeting house, there’s nowhere to move: Downtown Provincetown is densely packed.

Liam’s was closed for the season, and Ohman was keeping an eye on things by occasionally checking a town webcam trained on the beach.“It was a normal Friday,” he said. The Cape Cod Climate Change Collaborative’s mission is to reach carbon neutrality—or net zero—on Cape Cod and the Islands by enhancing communication, collaboration, and activism among organizations, programs and individuals committed to mitigating the climate crisis.We do this by uniting available knowledge, resources, talent and tools to mitigate climate change impacts on Cape Cod, reduce greenhouse gas emissions, and work toward achieving “net zero”-based goals for the Cape and Islands. The sand that stood between Liam’s and the sea was shrinking. Everything is connected, not just on the Cape but around the world.Every year, Ahanu writes those connections across the sky.There are other storytellers winging the Cape skies, feeding off its bounty, and occasionally wandering into a scientist’s snare.Consider the yellow-shafted northern flicker, a woodpecker common on the Cape. It is a subtle shift in migration patterns that can have devastating consequences.“There comes a point at which you have a complete ecological mismatch,” said Trevor Lloyd-Evans, director of Manomet’s landbird conservation program.

To shore up the path that flood waters followed in 2018, the town is planning to build a large dune at the end of Gosnold Street, where Heller’s gallery still sits. Hidden somewhere in all his notes on water and time is a window into the forces that have hastened the erosion of the Outer Cape’s shoreline, claiming yard upon yard of this very cliff. It is about what we can already see happening, right now, on America’s playground. The waves that eat at this shore are different now, too.

Already those knotted neck muscles are beginning to soften and uncoil.The beaches we love — Marconi, Cahoon Hollow, Nauset, to name three — are still miles away. Retreat. A decade might have gotten John to retirement. All you’ve got to do is see it.”Since the 1950s, the clam shack nestled in the dunes of Nauset Beach in Orleans had been the place to go. Why would you do that?”This shortsightedness about climate change is hardly unique to the Cape. Occasionally, nature sends up an even more ostentatious flare: A historic home vanishes.

And they are a remarkably effective check on the forces driving climate change, trapping carbon that would otherwise enter the atmosphere 55 times more efficiently than tropical rainforest, according to Mass Audubon.But these wetlands can no longer keep pace with the water. The ocean is rising faster than it has in thousands of years.

At the top of the dune, near the bench where the line for milkshakes used to form, they took a photo together.The tide was low.

Families play on beaches that look like they always have, but the sand is not the same, either. But it could be almost anywhere on the Cape.A late lunch here is one of the purest joys of a summer day off, and a rite of vacationers.Built and popularized around the notion that the nearby sea’s bounty was best enjoyed fresh, places like Cobies still make an effort to keep things local when they can, seeking nearby fresh seafood at a price customers will tolerate.But that is increasingly impossible.

Energy from waves shifts sediment in every direction, often all at once, and if you could stand on the ocean floor and see each grain of sand with perfect clarity, it might look like a blizzard.

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