Hesson was depicted by Gerard … I just couldn’t do the deal—so I’ve embraced a form of universal spirituality.”There have been whisperings by some—I heard it in a discussion recently—that Moriarity had been “reckless” when he drowned in the Indian Ocean more than a decade ago. But just as a film like Field of Dreams is not, ultimately, about baseball, Chasing Mavericks is about something much deeper in the human condition, about pursuing one’s dreams and reaching deep inside oneself.
Frosty Hesson: Chasing Mavericks. But Domhoff had nothing but good things to say about Frosty and Kim and indicated that their presence on the set “helped to keep everyone focused and grounded” and that they “reminded everyone that there was something larger at stake here than in your typical Hollywood movie.”It wasn’t until I was assigned to write a magazine story about Chasing Mavericks earlier this year that I first encountered Hesson, via email. It’s about being true to yourself and treating others well. Jay Moriarity (June 16, 1978 – June 15, 2001) was a surfer from Santa Cruz, California. “He was challenging himself,” Hesson affirms. I got up to leave. When young Jay Moriarity discovers that the mythic Mavericks surf break, one of the biggest waves on Earth, exists just miles from his Santa Cruz home, he enlists the help of local legend Frosty Hesson to train him to survive it. Who needs just another good athlete or surfer? The Point is a surfer’s paradise, and a distinctive surf culture emanates from just about every nook and cranny.The place responds to the rhythm of the tides. “There was just something about that deep end,” he writes. It was a big deal for me, but I said, Mike, That’s incredible, but I have to tell you no. 1 of 3 Legendary surfer Richard “Frosty” Hesson heads out to catch some waves at Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz. Frosty cared a lot about Jay as a person and was concerned in an intelligent way. Actor Gerard Butler, left, was cast as Jay's mentor and coach, Rick "Frosty" Hesson, and Leven Rambin, right, was cast as Jay's wife, Kim Moriarity. According to a 2011 article in the Santa Cruz Sentinel [1], in 2001 Kim Moriarity founded the Jay Moriarity Foundation [2] in honor of her late husband. “He loves to find solutions, to figure things out. Hesson concluded his initial missive to me with the simple valediction: “Enjoy.”A short time later, another email concluded with the same parting affirmation. He is smiling, always smiling—a modern day version of Budai.The word “Buddha,” I mention at one point, means “one who is awake.”Hesson smiles.
Hesson had suggested this “young kid” should be on the Pearson Arrow surf team and brought Moriarity over to the factory.“One afternoon Jay and Frosty came in to discuss the shaping and design of Jay’s boards,” Pearson recalls. Hesson had instilled in his young student the idea of “dialing himself into his board,” of knowing “what worked for him and not anyone else.”He emphasizes that both his—and Hesson’s—relationship with Moriarity was that of a “friendship,” as opposed to a teacher and student. “He was always helping people, taking care of people,” Pearson recalls. “I expect the next several months to be unexplainable and then my life to return to being with family and friends.”There we were, two old frosty-haired dogs sitting in the Pleasure Point sun, and for all our scars, the laughing gods of the universe were smiling down on us. They were talking story all the time. My initial communication with him had been really something of a shot in the dark. Chasing Mavericks, says Kim Moriarity, “is not about capturing the biggest wave or experiencing the biggest wipeout. On December 19, 1994, sixteen-year-old surfer Jay Moriarity wiped out at Mavericks on a fifty-foot monster wave. I used to see them hanging out at The Point. By chance, Hesson briefly found his way into a small coastal village and checked his email.When I discovered that I had a return message from “Frosty,” I really had no idea what to expect. Age didn’t exist.”Pearson says that he and Hesson can sit down in his factory and discuss surfboard design for hours. “That’s my good buddy, he’s just a helpful guy with a big heart,” Pearson chuckles. Jay wipes out at first, but then retrieves his board and successfully rides Mavericks.
But a lot of that was private; I wasn’t privy to it all. “Jay taught people how to live. Weston is … We all learned from Jay. Frosty Hesson is known for his work on Chasing Mavericks (2012) and Making Mavericks (2012). At the end of each episode, he draws a series of life lessons—aphorisms, or affirmations, really—that shape and guide his life, such as:To be successful, you cannot let yourself be tainted by other people’s fears.If people didn’t pass along what they’ve learned, we would never progress.Potential doesn’t mean much if you don’t put in the mental and physical work that is required to fulfill it.One of the figures in Hesson’s book—and also in the film—is Bob Pearson, another Santa Cruz surf legend (he was ranked among the top surfers in the world in the 1970s) who is also the founder of the wildly successful Pearson Arrow Surfboards.Pearson and Hesson grew up together in the East Bay, first meeting in high school, as Pearson recalls, and then served as lifeguards and played on the same water polo team in junior college. “Jay learned from Frosty, but Frosty also learned from Jay,” he says. “I was raised a Southern Baptist.
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